Brunello is Sangiovese grown on the hills around Montalcino and held back for at least five years before release, two of them in oak. The result is a wine of real structure: red fruit, savory herbs, and tannins that need either air or age. This is the 2021 from Tenuta San Giorgio Ugolforte. Open it early; it opens up considerably with air. Excellent with grilled beef, game, and hard sheep's-milk cheeses.