Some of Etna's volcanic soils kept phylloxera at bay, leaving pockets of ungrafted vines more than a century old. La Vigna di Don Peppino is Terre Nere's prephylloxera parcel of Nerello Mascalese in Contrada Calderara Sottana. Red cherry, rose, blood orange, smoke and iron with fine, silky tannins and great length. Terre Nere, 2023 vintage. Decant briefly and serve slightly cool; it will age well. Serve with roast duck, mushroom risotto, or grilled lamb.

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