Nebbiolo makes Barolo, and Barolo's calling card is the gap between how it looks and how it behaves. Rose petal and red cherry over a firm, grippy frame that softens considerably with time. Piedmont, in Italy's northwest, is Nebbiolo's home ground and produces some of the country's longest-lived reds. Stroppiana Bussia, 2017 vintage. Decant at least ninety minutes ahead, or cellar it. Classic with braised beef, truffle, risotto, and aged cheese.

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