Montalcino sits south of Siena, warmer and drier than Chianti, and its Sangiovese — called Brunello here — ripens into something far more powerful. Expect sour cherry framed by leather, dried herbs and tobacco, with the firm acidity that makes Sangiovese such a natural food wine. Tuscany is Sangiovese country, from everyday Chianti to the long-lived reds of Montalcino and the Cabernet-influenced blends of the coast. This is the 2018 from San Filippo Le Lucére. Open it early; it opens up considerably with air. Excellent with grilled beef, game, and hard sheep's-milk cheeses.

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