Ghemme is a small DOCG in Alto Piemonte, the hills of northern Piedmont near Novara, where Nebbiolo is grown on glacial soils and sometimes blended with a little Vespolina. Rovellotti is a family estate based in the old castle-village of Ghemme, and Chioso dei Pomi is one of its bottlings. Expect red cherry, rose, dried herbs and a mineral edge with firm acidity and fine tannins. Rovellotti, 2018 vintage. Decant for an hour. Pair with braised beef, mushroom risotto, or Gorgonzola.

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