The Langhe hills southwest of Alba produce Barolo, a wine required to spend at least three years maturing before release. Pale garnet in the glass, then tar, dried rose and sour cherry on the palate, carried by serious tannin. Piedmont, in Italy's northwest, is Nebbiolo's home ground and produces some of the country's longest-lived reds. This is the 2022 from Rocca Giovanni. This needs air — a good long decant, or several more years in the rack. Serve with brasato, mushroom risotto, or aged Piedmontese cheeses.

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