Montalcino sits south of Siena, warmer and drier than Chianti, and its Sangiovese — called Brunello here — ripens into something far more powerful. Expect sour cherry framed by leather, dried herbs and tobacco, with the firm acidity that makes Sangiovese such a natural food wine. Tuscan hillsides, poor soils and a long dry summer are the conditions Sangiovese needs to ripen properly. This is the 2020 from Poggio. Open it early; it opens up considerably with air. Excellent with grilled beef, game, and hard sheep's-milk cheeses.

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