Barbaresco is Nebbiolo from a few miles across the Tanaro from Barolo — same grape, warmer and lower-lying sites. Elegant rather than imposing, though the tannins are still very much present. Orlando Abrigo Meruzzano, 2019 vintage. A shorter decant than Barolo needs — thirty to sixty minutes. Good with roast poultry, pasta with truffle, and firm cheeses.

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