By law a Brunello is 100% Sangiovese and cannot be sold until its fifth year after harvest, which is why even young bottles arrive already softened. Expect sour cherry framed by leather, dried herbs and tobacco, with the firm acidity that makes Sangiovese such a natural food wine. Tuscany is Sangiovese country, from everyday Chianti to the long-lived reds of Montalcino and the Cabernet-influenced blends of the coast. This is the 2020 from Mastrojanni. Give it forty-five minutes in a decanter. Made for roast and braised meats, or a long-cooked ragù.

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