Roero sits across the Tanaro river from Barolo and Barbaresco, and its reds are Nebbiolo grown on sandier soils that give a more perfumed, gentler style. Malvirà is a leading family estate there, and Trinità is its single-vineyard wine. At twenty years old, expect dried cherry, rose, tar, leather, and truffle, with softened tannins. Malvirà, 2004 vintage. Stand it upright and decant carefully off the sediment. Pair with tajarin with truffle, braised beef, or aged Castelmagno.

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