By law a Brunello is 100% Sangiovese and cannot be sold until its fifth year after harvest, which is why even young bottles arrive already softened. Expect sour cherry framed by leather, dried herbs and tobacco, with the firm acidity that makes Sangiovese such a natural food wine. Tuscany's wine map has been redrawn repeatedly, most dramatically when the Super Tuscans broke the rules in the 1970s. This is the 2021 from Lisini 'Poggio Severo'. Give it forty-five minutes in a decanter. Made for roast and braised meats, or a long-cooked ragù.

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