Friuli, in Italy's northeast corner, is where Pinot Grigio is taken seriously rather than churned out — and Jermann is one of the names that built that reputation. Made properly, the grape gives a textured, pear-and-almond white with real weight, nothing like the thin commercial version. Serve it cool but not frozen, and use a decent glass. Good with prosciutto, risotto, seafood, or a plate of soft cheese.

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