The Langhe hills southwest of Alba produce Barolo, a wine required to spend at least three years maturing before release. Pale garnet in the glass, then tar, dried rose and sour cherry on the palate, carried by serious tannin. The Langhe hills of Piedmont are fog-prone and steep, and the region's best sites face south for every hour of sun they can get. This is the 2021 from Gaja Sperss. This needs air — a good long decant, or several more years in the rack. Serve with brasato, mushroom risotto, or aged Piedmontese cheeses.

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