Darmagi is Angelo Gaja's Cabernet Sauvignon from Barbaresco, planted in 1978 in place of Nebbiolo. His father's reaction reportedly gave the wine its name, which means what a pity in Piedmontese. It is bottled as Langhe DOC. Blackcurrant, cedar, tobacco and graphite with firm, fine-grained tannins and great length. Gaja, 2022 vintage. Best after years in the cellar; decant well if opening young. Serve with beef tenderloin, rack of lamb, or aged Parmigiano.

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