Nebbiolo makes Barolo, and Barolo's calling card is the gap between how it looks and how it behaves. Rose petal and red cherry over a firm, grippy frame that softens considerably with time. Piedmont sits at the foot of the Alps, and its cool autumns are what allow Nebbiolo to hang late into October. This is the 2022 from G.D. Vajra Albe. Decant at least ninety minutes ahead, or cellar it. Classic with braised beef, truffle, risotto, and aged cheese.

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