Barolo is Nebbiolo grown in a handful of villages in the Langhe hills of Piedmont, and it is one of Italy's two or three greatest reds. Aromatically it leans floral and red-fruited; structurally it is one of the most tannic wines in the world. The 2020, under the Elvio Cogno label. Give it plenty of time open before pouring. Made for rich, slow-cooked dishes and cold weather.

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