Nebbiolo makes Barolo, and Barolo's calling card is the gap between how it looks and how it behaves. Pale garnet in the glass, then tar, dried rose and sour cherry on the palate, carried by serious tannin. Piedmont, in Italy's northwest, is Nebbiolo's home ground and produces some of the country's longest-lived reds. The 2018, under the Cavallotto label. Give it plenty of time open before pouring. Made for rich, slow-cooked dishes and cold weather.

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