Castellare di Castellina is a Chianti Classico estate in Castellina in Chianti, and I Sodi di San Niccolò is its famous Toscana red, built on Sangioveto (the local name for Sangiovese) with a little Malvasia Nera. Expect dark cherry, violet, dried herbs, tobacco and a fine, firm tannic structure. Castellare, 2020 vintage. This needs time or air; decant for an hour or two. Serve with bistecca, braised wild boar, or aged pecorino.

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