Montalcino sits south of Siena, warmer and drier than Chianti, and its Sangiovese — called Brunello here — ripens into something far more powerful. Depth without heaviness is the signature — concentration carried by acidity rather than sheer weight. Tuscany's wine map has been redrawn repeatedly, most dramatically when the Super Tuscans broke the rules in the 1970s. Biondi-Santi, 2017 vintage. Decant an hour ahead. Serve with bistecca, wild boar ragù, or aged pecorino.

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