Gattinara is one of the great Nebbiolo appellations of Alto Piemonte, where volcanic, acidic soils give wines that are more perfumed and mineral than Barolo. Antoniolo is a benchmark family estate here, and San Francesco is one of its single-vineyard bottlings. Red cherry, rose, orange peel and iron with firm, fine tannins. Antoniolo, 2020 vintage. Decant for an hour or cellar for years. Serve with braised beef, mushroom risotto, or Toma cheese.

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