Cabernet Sauvignon is a natural cross of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, first identified in seventeenth-century Bordeaux. Dark fruit and firm structure — the tannins are the point, not an accident. Some of the oldest producing vines on earth grow in South Australia, having escaped phylloxera entirely. The 2017, under the Yalumba The Octavius label. Give it thirty minutes open before pouring. The classic pairing is a well-marbled steak.

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