Pinot Noir is an ancient variety, genetically unstable and prone to mutating — which is part of why it varies so much. Silky texture and moderate weight — this is a wine of perfume rather than power. Sonoma is roughly twice Napa's size and considerably more diverse, running from the chilly coast to warm inland valleys. Williams Selyem Sonoma Coast, 2024 vintage. Best just below room temperature. Serve with charcuterie, roast chicken, or soft cheeses.

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