Growers persist with Pinot Noir despite its fragility because nothing else offers the same combination of lightness and depth. Translucent in the glass and considerably more persistent on the palate than it looks. Oregon's Willamette Valley sits at roughly the same latitude as Burgundy and makes Pinot Noir with a similar sensibility. The 2022, under the WillaKenzie label. Twenty minutes in the fridge before serving does this a real favor. Flexible at the table — it handles fish and meat equally well.

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