Te Mata Estate in Hawke's Bay is New Zealand's oldest winery, dating to the 1890s, and Coleraine is its celebrated Bordeaux-style red, blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. Blackcurrant, red plum, cedar, and violet, with a medium-full, elegant frame that recalls classic claret more than Napa. Te Mata, 2020 vintage. Decant for an hour, or cellar for years. Serve with rack of lamb, roast beef, or venison.

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