Eszencia is the rarest thing in Tokaj and arguably in wine: the free-run juice that seeps from botrytised aszú berries under their own weight, so sugar-rich that fermentation barely proceeds and alcohol stays around a few percent. The result is a syrup of extraordinary concentration, traditionally spooned rather than poured. Oremus is Vega Sicilia's Tokaj estate. Serve very cold, in tiny measures. A bottle that lasts for years once opened.

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