Steep terraces of black slate define Priorat, and the yields there are tiny. Old-vine Garnacha and Cariñena produce concentrated, mineral wines with a dark, almost stony character. Spain has more land under vine than any country on earth, from Atlantic-cool Galicia to the baking interior plateaus. This is the 2021 from Merum Priorati El Cel. Give it a good hour of air. Serve with roasted meat and cold weather.

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