Matsu is a project from Toro, in Spain's Castilla y León, where Tinta de Toro, the local strain of Tempranillo, makes some of the country's most concentrated reds, and each label in the range features a portrait of a local vine grower. La Jefa follows that line with a dark, ripe style: black cherry, blackberry, licorice and sweet spice, with a full body and firm tannins. Matsu, 2022 vintage. Decant for about an hour. Serve with grilled lamb, chorizo, or aged Manchego.

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