The three Matsu wines carry portraits of a young man, a middle-aged man, and an old man on their labels, corresponding to vine age — El Viejo is the oldest, from bush vines well past a century. Toro grows Tinta de Toro, a thick-skinned local strain of Tempranillo, in a hot, dry, high-altitude corner of Castilla y León. Expect concentration and dark fruit. Decant, and pour it with grilled or roasted meat.

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