In Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc drinks nothing like the tropical New World style. Citrus, wet stone and cut grass, with a saline finish and no tropical fruit in sight. The Loire runs cool and long, producing taut Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin in every sweetness level, and light, peppery Cabernet Franc. This is the 2021 from Lucien Crochet La Croix. Best cold, in a decent glass. The traditional match is Loire goat cheese; also excellent with oysters and grilled fish.

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