Few grapes have swung as far in and out of fashion as Chardonnay, and the best examples never deserved either extreme. Texture is the measure here — the good ones have weight without heaviness. Oregon's Willamette Valley sits at roughly the same latitude as Burgundy and makes Pinot Noir with a similar sensibility. The 2022, under the Lingua Franca Bunker Hill label. Serve lightly chilled rather than cold — over-chilling flattens the texture. Excellent with lobster, roast chicken, or a butter-based sauce.

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