Growers persist with Pinot Noir despite its fragility because nothing else offers the same combination of lightness and depth. Translucent in the glass and considerably more persistent on the palate than it looks. Volcanic Jory soils and sedimentary sites give Willamette Valley wines a distinctly earthy signature. The 2021, under the Holloran Le Pavillon label. Twenty minutes in the fridge before serving does this a real favor. Flexible at the table — it handles fish and meat equally well.

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