Pinot Noir carries less tannin and less color than most serious reds, and relies on texture and aroma instead. Red fruit, dried herb and a savory undertone that builds with a little air. South Africa's Cape vineyards catch cold air off the Atlantic, and the best sites produce wines closer in proportion to Europe than to the New World. This is the 2024 from Hamilton Russell. Twenty minutes in the fridge before serving does this a real favor. Flexible at the table — it handles fish and meat equally well.

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