Growers persist with Pinot Noir despite its fragility because nothing else offers the same combination of lightness and depth. Translucent in the glass and considerably more persistent on the palate than it looks. No vineyard in New Zealand sits far from the sea, and that maritime influence runs through the wines. Felton Road Bannockburn, 2024 vintage. Serve slightly cool, around 60°F; a warm pour loses most of the detail. Good with grilled salmon, roast duck, or anything with mushrooms.

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