Condrieu is the northern Rhône appellation where Viognier is king, grown on steep granite slopes just south of Côte-Rôtie. E. Guigal, the region's best-known house, makes a reference version: apricot, white peach, honeysuckle and a touch of spice, with a rich, silky texture and a fresh, mineral finish. E. Guigal, 2022 vintage. Serve cool, not ice cold, so the aromatics show. Pair with lobster, scallops, Thai-spiced dishes, or roast chicken with apricots.

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