Hermitage is a single granite hill above the Rhône at Tain, and its Syrah is among the longest-lived red wine in France. Jean-Louis Chave's family has farmed here for generations, and his red is assembled from parcels across the hill's different lieux-dits. Blackberry, violet, smoked meat, and black pepper over a dense, fine-grained frame. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 2021 vintage. This deserves patience: cellar it for years, or decant well ahead. Serve with roast venison, lamb shoulder, or beef daube.

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