The hill of Hermitage in the northern Rhône produces some of France's longest-lived whites, made mostly from Marsanne with some Roussanne. The Chave family has farmed there for centuries and is widely considered the benchmark producer. Expect quince, honey, white peach, hazelnut and a broad, layered texture, with a mineral freshness underneath. Domaine Jean-Louis Chave, 2021 vintage. This can age for decades; if opening now, decant and serve cool, not cold. Pair with lobster, roast veal, or chicken in a cream and morel sauce.

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