Côte-Rôtie is the northernmost appellation of the Rhône, where Syrah grows on very steep schist terraces, sometimes with a little Viognier, and it produces some of France's most perfumed reds. Lancement is a well-regarded lieu-dit within the appellation. Expect black olive, violet, smoked meat, blackberry and pepper, with silky but firm tannins. Domaine Garon, 2016 vintage, now showing some of the savory development these wines gain with age. Decant for an hour. Serve with duck breast, roast venison, or lamb with rosemary.

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