Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc grown on the flinty limestone slopes above the upper Loire, and it drinks nothing like the tropical New Zealand style — this is citrus, wet stone, and cut grass, with a saline finish. Les Belles Vignes is a single-cuvée bottling from the family's older parcels. Serve properly chilled. The classic pairing is Loire goat cheese, but it's equally at home with oysters, shellfish, or a plate of grilled fish.

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