Gigondas sits at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail in the southern Rhône, and its Grenache-based reds are often described as Châteauneuf-du-Pape's more rugged neighbor. Expect kirsch, raspberry, garrigue herbs and pepper, with a firm, stony structure. Château de Saint Cosme, one of the appellation's oldest family estates and run by Louis Barruol, 2023 vintage. Decant for an hour, or cellar it for several years. Serve with leg of lamb, daube of beef, or grilled sausages with lentils.

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