Chardonnay is the most malleable white grape there is, which is why it tastes so different from place to place. Orchard fruit and citrus, with weight that depends entirely on how it was handled in the cellar. The 2021, under the Brewer-Clifton Sta. Rita Hills label. Serve lightly chilled rather than cold — over-chilling flattens the texture. Serve with seafood, pork, or mushroom dishes.

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