Only sparkling wine from the Champagne region may use the name, and the method behind it is slow and expensive. Fine, persistent bubbles and a saline, chalky finish that reflects the region's limestone. This is the 2012 from Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois. Serve at around 47°F, in a white-wine glass rather than a flute — you'll taste considerably more. Very good with oysters, fried food, hard cheese, or on its own.

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