Campo de Borja in Aragon calls itself the empire of Garnacha, with old, low-yielding vines on stony hillsides. Alto Moncayo, a project of importer Jorge Ordóñez, makes big, ripe Garnacha there, and Veraton is its mid-tier bottling. Black cherry, raspberry, licorice, and spice, full and plush. Alto Moncayo, 2022 vintage. Open it 30 minutes ahead. Pair with grilled lamb chops, chorizo, or barbecued ribs.

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