Few grapes are as immediately recognisable in the glass as Sauvignon Blanc. Cooler sites push it toward grapefruit and stone; warmer ones toward passionfruit and gooseberry. The Loire runs cool and long, producing taut Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin in every sweetness level, and light, peppery Cabernet Franc. This is the 2024 from Alphonse Mellot Pouilly-Fume. Cold, and drink it young. Excellent with goat cheese, shellfish, ceviche, or a green salad.

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