Pinot Noir carries less tannin and less color than most serious reds, and relies on texture and aroma instead. Red cherry and raspberry over an earthy, savory base, with light color that belies its complexity. The Loire runs cool and long, producing taut Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin in every sweetness level, and light, peppery Cabernet Franc. Bottled by Alphonse Mellot Les Penitents from the 2021 harvest. Serve cool — warmth flattens it. Good with grilled salmon, roast duck, or anything with mushrooms.

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