Pinot Noir is an ancient variety, genetically unstable and prone to mutating — which is part of why it varies so much. Translucent in the glass and considerably more persistent on the palate than it looks. France's longest river gives its name to a string of very different appellations, united mostly by freshness. Alphonse Mellot Génération XIX, 2022 vintage. Serve cool — warmth flattens it. Good with grilled salmon, roast duck, or anything with mushrooms.

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