Velenosi is one of the leading estates of the southern Marche, near Ascoli Piceno, and Ludi is its top red, a Montepulciano-based wine from the Offida area. It is a big, dark style: blackberry, black cherry, cocoa and sweet spice, with a dense, velvety texture and substantial tannins. Velenosi, 2019 vintage. Give it a decant of an hour or so and pour it in large glasses. Serve with grilled ribeye, wild boar ragù, or aged pecorino.

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