Altitude defines Ribera del Duero: fierce daytime sun, sharply cold nights, and thick-skinned fruit as a result. That diurnal swing produces reds with deeper color, firmer structure and darker fruit than Rioja's. Spain has more land under vine than any country on earth, from Atlantic-cool Galicia to the baking interior plateaus. This is the 2014 from Vega Sicilia Unico. Give it an hour of air. The regional pairing is roast lamb, and it is hard to improve on.

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