Sonoma-Cutrer has been making Chardonnay in this idiom for decades — barrel-fermented, partially malolactic, but built around Sonoma Coast fruit that keeps enough acidity to stay lively. The result sits in the middle ground between the lean, unoaked style and the big buttery one, which is exactly why it pleases a table full of people with different tastes. Serve it lightly chilled rather than cold; over-chilling flattens the texture that makes it worth drinking.