This is a wine, and the label's grape, region and vintage are the most reliable guide to its style. The finer details here come down to the grape and region on the label rather than the broad category of wine. Spanish reds have moved decisively toward fruit and freshness in recent decades without abandoning their oak tradition. The 2023, under the Raúl Pérez Ultreia Valtuille label. Serve at the temperature appropriate to its style — chilled for whites and sparkling, cool room temperature for reds. Match the dish's weight to the wine's.

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