Chardonnay is the most malleable white grape there is, which is why it tastes so different from place to place. Rounded and layered, finishing dry with a fresh acidic lift. Les Cretes Valle d'Aosta, 2023 vintage. Serve lightly chilled rather than cold — over-chilling flattens the texture. Excellent with lobster, roast chicken, or a butter-based sauce.

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